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Handsfree Heli Helmet

Fun for all, old and new! This one’s easy, so get HACKING(or send me your helmets)!!!

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Fully Functional Helmet on Mostly functional Human

This is a military helicopter helmet that i found for 22$ at a thrift shop. I like it so much I bought two.

It has re-purposed electronics so that it works with a Playstation3 or Cell phone via bluetooth, and has a complete second circuit integrated to output to a an RF-wireless headset that is also routed through the original system’s speakers. The combination allows for  a unique helmet that allows me to both have the ambient video-game sounds as well as chat-communications integrated into a single helmet for gaming, but also allows me to use it as a regular bluetooth, radio, or wireless headset form the TV when the wife isn’t awake yet. This project is straightforward, but to look GREAT it takes some time. One major advantage is that you’re updating very old technology with very new. New stuff is smaller so you have decent working space to hide it all.

The Helmet:

It’s speakers were made Sept 11, 1984 (reusing them because they’re cool and work), Other pieces say 1993. It’s has a U-174/U input connector wired. The original Electret Microphone from the Gub’ment was an amazing piece of noise-cancelling wizardry, but I decided against using it, opting to extend the wiring the the bluetooth headsets original pickup and wiring the sound to the right speaker(arbitrary).This is mostly because i would have had to create a phantom-power circuit for it..and i was lazy that day.

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The original wiring of this is for MONO mic and MONO headphones from a theatrically large 4-pin analog u174 connector. I split the loom to the speakers to allow stereo (’cause gaming takes advantage and it’s better, dammit!)

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New wires run to speaker cup and to stock headphone wires. RED/BLK to SPKR+-, YEL/GRN to mic +-

Supplies+rundown:

1 ) Helmet with integrated Analog headset (tear it down, locate speaker wires, dissect electret microphone plastic and solder in the mini-microphone from the bluetooth headset on short (pre-attach these) wire leads to the electret’s stock +- pins ).

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Bluetooth with wire extensions, U174 Mic connector, Original Electret Microphone being glued back together with new (from bluetooth headset) condenser mic in it. This gives you perspective on the tiny-ness of the Bluetooth. Pity it just wouldn't fit IN the original electret mic.

2) bluettooth wireless headset (you’re extending the reach by running leads from the mic+- and speakr+-. Mine is a Jwin branded unit which are about 10$ on a good day. Good thing too these things are TINY and ROBOTS did the soldering the first time so I messed one up easily.  Short of abducting a child I was able to solder the tiny connections by leaving an exacto blade between the terminals to curb solder flow between the “please-bring-a-microscope” terminals. The speaker terminals have wire leads already and if you’re gentle you can solder to THOSE for the speaker leads. extra care with the mic/spkr soldering regardless, and I suggest reinforcing with hot glue.

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Tiny bugger. silver rectangle is the battery, black bit is the stock speaker(I've snipped it off), and the reddish blur area at the top right of the board is the bluetooth's microphone, wee bastard. that's a real human thumbnail for caparison.

3)spare wire. i suggest using different colors of wire. My wire is from some retired CAT5 or telephone cable. plenty of color options in there.

4)soldering kit- solder new leads to the speakers and run them through the stock wiring pass-though on the headphone cups.

5) hot glue kit- used this to both melt a spot fin the polystyrene for, and to glue in place the bluetooth dongle. Use hot glue liberally. I reinforced all of my micro-tiny solder points with hot-glue to keep their fragile connections intact under a little bit of wiggle pressure.

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Hotglued in place, i'll use the tape to keep the hot glue formed correctly, and keep the Bluetooth from moving as glue cools. This location lines up with a small hole in the helmet so i can activate the on/off button it while weaing the helmet.

6) For BONUS POINTS you should also acquire a RF-wireless headset and wire it in as well. I found a set that allowed the battery and board to fit in the stock cups behind the stock speakers for 14.99 that ALSo has an AM/FM RADIO!! FANCY PANTS!!! This step wasn’t really that bad. or even much different from the other steps above. Just add a new lead to each speaker, but directionally isolate signals to them by adding an inline commercial headphone splitter or some diodes to keep them from back-feeding into each others output electronics. If there is much interest in that portion of the build, I’ll get something posted, though it’s mostly a matter of hot-gluing the RF board and battery into each speaker cups, runing thee wire and drilling a hole to access the on/off switch. . .